PANE E VINO,

The name Pane e Vino says it all. If you serve the best bread you can find and the best wine, everything else follows. It's ironic that with the excellent Italian bakeries on the Hill, this place gets its Italian bread from Olga's Cup & Saucer across town, but this is just evidence that this restaurant doesn't rely on the obvious. As for the wine, there are scores to choose from by the bottle -- all Italian, of course -- and an even two-dozen by the glass. Proprietor Joe Dequattro used to work for Martinetti as a wine consultant, so we're in safe hands. The décor is attractive without being ostentatious. Flowers on every table, but they are buds or small blossoms with baby's breath. Potted plants are on banquette dividers in the front room, along with tall tangles of vines in vases set in niches in the textured peach-colored stucco walls. A back-dining room has a cozy fireplace and a mural of the Bay of Naples.

Full review.